Published at Saturday, November 17th 2018. by Carolyn Mcguire in Patio Table.
Lack of Miss Pacific love today, I 'ma show you how I built this table that turns into an awesome bin, so you can sit on and enjoy. I had a bunch of 2x4 lumber and wanted to make an entire bench from just those. The total width was going to be four feet, so I cut down four boards into eight sections. These will be the tabletop and the seat. I then remembered I needed two wide boards for the pivoting part of the table, so I grabbed some scrap boards and glued them side-by-side. I used several clamps for each section and place them to the side to dry. I've been continued on cutting the legs to length. I needed two short boards about eighteen inches, long for the front and two boards about thirty inches long for the rear to help stabilize the legs. I angle my miter saw to ten degrees and trim the tops and bottoms of each leg, making sure they were parallel.
These angles will help prevent the project from tipping forward or backward. I also cut down two side supports to about 26 inches which hold the front and back legs together and provide the base for the seat. I laid out the supports trying to keep about four inches on each side and then squared them up on my workbench and then tap two holes in each side of each seat board and secure them with screws. As for the spacing between the board's, I eyeballed about a quarter to half an inch and screw them in place. I next flip the seat over and position the legs in place and since the legs were angled, they needed to be leaning outward for support. I clamp them in place and added two screws on each side to prevent them from becoming loose. I could have used glue, but I wanted them to be replaceable just in case they broke or became weak over time. I've been moved everything to the floor for more space, making sure to level the legs on two more straight boards. I've been leveled and clamped the remaining two legs to the side supports before securing them in place with several screws. The angle on these boards must also face outward to provide stability. I then added a rear support piece connecting the two back legs to give the structure strength after the glued boards.
Finally dried. I ran them through my planer to make them flat and remove the curved edges in the middle. I measure the tops to about 18 inches and the bottoms to about four inches and use my jigsaw to trim them down. These will be the pivoting boards for the tabletop, so even though it may not be necessary, I added two screws to each piece connecting the two boards. I'd rather be extra safe, now than sorry later to hold these boards to the frame. I chose a 3/8 inch threaded rod with locking nuts and 3/8 inch eye bolts. I then clamped the pivoting board in place and first drilled, the main support hole. I then test fitted the rod which was a tight fit, but it worked. I adjusted the clamps and drilled the second hole. I've been marked the best length on the rod carefully sawed off the extra metal on my vise and filed off the rough edges. When installing the rod, I made sure to leave about a sixteenth of an inch to play so that if the wood was as well due to humidity, it would not bind up. I've been repeated the process on the other side for the tabletop.
I just laid out the five boards trying to keep them about evenly spaced I've been pre-drilled each board and secured them in place with two screws on each side, but for the board's on the end, I had to angle the screws inward to prevent them from recruiting Through the bottom, with everything secure, I tested the pivoting of the top and it worked great, but the angle of the bench backrest was a little too vertical so space through with a couple two by fours, and it was perfect for me. It only needed a couple of screws, and a bench angle was just right. With the structure complete, my son helped me move it to the outside for sanding. I removed most of the factory stamps and tried to remove all of the sharp edges and then laid out some plastic and taped off the edges around the seat for the seat and tabletop. I chose to use some traditional cherry stain and for the rest of the frame. I went with carbon gray, the color contrast between the two made, the chair, you really stand out and the final result turned out much better than I had hoped.
Any content, trademark’s, or other material that might be found on the marxistoutlook.com website that is not marxistoutlook.com’s property remains the copyright of its respective owner/s. In no way does marxistoutlook.com claim ownership or responsibility for such items, and you should seek legal consent for any use of such materials from its owner.
Copyright © 2018 marxistoutlook.com. All Rights Reserved.