Published at Friday, November 30th 2018. by Janelle Warner in Storage Shed.
Firewood storage shed. Essentially, I've got a 4 foot by 12-foot plan and it goes up about five-and-a-half feet on the inside of this shed that you see here, it's all wood slats, going all the way around. It's all treated lumber with an asphalt, shingle roof and what you've got to do is essentially go to the city and get a permit, write up your plans and come back and dig some holes. So I here I'm digging six post holes putting some four-by-fours in there. You can try to do it by hand, but it's actually easier to go out and rent this machine right here which will actually get you down, maybe with the help of a rock crusher in case you hit some rocks too, but then you want to come back and you want to cut this down level all the way across, so once you've leveled off your four by fours. You want to notch into them, for the joist runs the full twelve foot and it's important because you want that too. But I'm using two by sixes here and you want those two by sixes to be resting into that - that four by four and you're going to lag bolt through it.
So the lag bolts aren't really there to hold the joist top there, really there just to keep it in its spot. So you want to notch into that four by four put these joists down, then you can see I'm using two by fours and slapping them. On top for, like an i-beam and what that does is I'm gluing and screwing them down, and that adds a tremendous amount of strength to this floor and because, when it's fully loaded, it's going to have about six thousand pounds of wet firewood on it. You want this to be really strong, and especially the foot or two, if I didn't mention it earlier, the footer needs to be at least 12 inches wide and go down 42 inches or below the freezer, and that should be strong enough to hold this in the Middle here I'm using you're just beginning to see if there are two beams coming across there, those beams I've doubled up because most of the weight actually goes to the middle. It's just an engineering thing. I guess I guess the weight will actually be dispersed and those middle posts, so you want to double up the beams there for even more rigidity and strength for all this wet firewood. So here's a close-up of the 4x4 post with a notch left to put in to rest.
My two by six joist on top of and that adds a lot of strength to the floor. So now you can see I've started to lay the floor and have actually put some studs up and I actually put those studs in through the lag bolt that I had originally. So I just got a longer lag bolt put the studs in there and those are two by sixes as well. They run up to the top where I have a rafter going across and now you can see, we've got here is finished product. So the floor has also a gap between all those slats. It's about an inch or an inch and a half, so the airflow can get through and help the wood season a little bit faster. And this is also facing the south side which, in Ohio here, that's going to get the Sun all day and that will also help speed up the seasoning process as well. So the length of this actually faces the sun all day. That really helps significantly, and you can see here just showing you some close-ups of the bolts and the floor here. You know it's I've even put because it's raised up off the ground, some chicken wire to go around to help keep out raccoons and squirrels at the top here for the shingle roof. You got to get like a drip edge that that just makes it look a little bit nicer and I've also faced the top there with a two by six as well, and overall, the project was less than a week.
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