Published at Tuesday, November 27th 2018. by Karin Gomez in Storage Bench.
This cubby bench, I'm going to be using 3/4 inch plywood as my primary building source, I'm going to cut down the top and the bottom of the cubby first, and I'm going to use a router to cut some rabbits and data into it. The rabbit will be a quarter inch deep, as will the dados it'll be as wide as the plywood, which will be the actual measurement, so it isn't actually 3/4 inch wide. It'S seven zero points: seven zero three-inch wire. Take your time and setting up each of these and measuring it out. It takes a while and we're going to go ahead and finish it off by cutting a rabbet on the back end, and this will be for the back piece because we want the back piece to sit on a rabbit. Rabbit joints are much stronger than just your traditional box. Joint now, with the top and bottom pieces formed identically, I'm going to cut out a piece for the back and I'm going to line up the top and bottom pieces as they will be and transfer the lines from the dados and the rabbits to ensure that these things are exact, an eighth of an inch difference can be a massive difference when you're talking about precision, work and cutting and joining would so.
I measure them carefully and I use this nice little jig I made from a thin piece of plywood to be able to identify where my router will be cutting and that greatly increased the speed of my work. Now I'm going to cut out the square inserts it'll go into those rabbits and data to be able to make the box I'm going to join them together to help join them together. I'm many of this right angle plan and use Brad nails, eighteen gauge to kind of just set these things nicely together and hold them still, while I finished putting them together. Brad's nails are great because you can still manipulate the wood because the brad's nails aren't very strong, but they'll also hold it nice and snug. While you get ready to drill the drill, countersink and then drive screws into all three sides to make this box very strong. Now, this box needs to sit up a little bit, so I'm going to cut out some strips, and this will go on the bottom side just to raise it that three-quarter inch width because I want to put some trim on this board. I could use a full sheet of plywood for this project as I have seen. Others do, but I didn't want to waste any why would or make this bench any heavier than it already is.
Now I'm cutting out some 1 by 2 pine strips and I'm going to be mounting that on the front side around the box openings and I'm just going to use Brad nails to hold these pieces in place. I could have used glue as well, but I wanted this to be semi-removable in case. I want to break it down later for another project. I found it critical to cut these vertical pieces precisely to avoid any sort of gap, especially since I'm going to be painting, as I want this to be flush. The speeds, where the handy tool to help line up these vertical pieces to make sure that they are straight up and down, and it will just be attached by simple Brad nails. Additionally, I cut up some trim board to put on the end to give it the similar look at the front had of finished carpentry, and I use the 18 gauge brad again. The brad's nails leave a little hole, so I'm covering that up with some putty filling it in and then standing it over to make it nice and smooth using molding on the bottom edge. Where the bench touches the floor will add a nice classic look and it doesn't take much effort just need to make sure you miter those edge, cuts perfectly and wrap it around the three exposed sides because the back end will just be pushed up against the wall. Now I'm going to be ain't painting this bottom portion and decided that a primer coat would be really excellent in ensuring that the main coat of paint will adhere properly well.
The primer coat is drying, I'm going to cut up some 10 by 1 dimensional pine, and I'm going to cut this for the bench top I'm going to find the best pieces, the best grain of the wood with the least damage and use those for my exposed top pieces, I'm going to glue two of these pieces together and I decided to use my bench to help me pull these together. So I'm using some wax paper to be able to ensure that the pieces don't accidentally get glued to the clamps or my bench. I did this because I did not have that many long clamps I just bought three brand new ones from Dewalt and just needed more clamps. That's the keyword right. You can never have too many clamps. This turned out really nice and clamping into the bench also helped me make this thing perfectly flat because that bench is perfectly flat made from MDF. Let's go back to painting time for an actual coat of paint, and you may not be able to see too much of a difference, because that is swiss coffee I am painting with which is very similar to the all-white primers. Swiss coffee is a great slightly warm color and because of the priming, I didn't have to apply more than two coats to completely cover the box 24 hours of dry time.
The glue was complete. I needed to just plain down the joint and then stand it off to make it look like one uniform tooth, and this went really well. The only thing would be left to you is to finish sizing this off I'll, go ahead and have to cut it on that radial arm saw it made it a little bit bigger to leave a margin of error, and I trimmed off the edges, because those got a little Nick's from just transporting the wood, a chamfer bit would clean up this edge nicely and create a beautiful look. However, this will be going into a home with a child, so I need to take that corner right off. Wood, conditioner or pre-stained is important to use before applying a stain to ensure a uniform application of the stain.
The stain I decide to use for this project is honey. It is a beautiful dark golden stain. I found that applying the stain with a brush and then moving it around with the roller created a really nice application, and let me control how much stain I was using, where the stain would be sealed with a polyurethane coat, and this polyurethane coat would need to go on three times with sanding between each coat. That is a light sanding of all the different, complicated ways you can attach a bench top. I decided to use the simplest, and that is just to drill some holes and join it with screws. I drilled plenty of holes, counterbored and countersunk them and made sure I didn't drill into the box to avoid a blowout situation, destroying the paint line up that bench top and now, when you have it where you want to clamp it down, so it doesn't move and Drill through the holes you've already made it into your bench top, but not through your bench, top make sure you mark that position on the drill, so you don't do too much and then add your screws here is the finished product.
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